WINE COUNTRY  The Sonoma and Napa Valleys
By M. Macartney

The end of October is a spectacular time to visit California’s northern wine country.  Yes, the harvesting is just about all done, but the fields are golden and red and a sight to behold.  Having been there during different months of the year, this could be my absolute favorite time to visit.  All the wine aficionado crowds that want to be there during the harvest have dwindled, and it’s easier to maneuver through the small villages.  You can enjoy your tasting without the lines, and dine at the restaurants, that only a month earlier, you couldn’t have even made reservations for without planning far ahead.  The people who work for the wineries and pour the wine for the tastings are more relaxed and friendly, as are the staff members in the restaurants we visited. 

The Napa and Sonoma Valley have become the premier wine producers in our country.  Here, there are cooling breezes from the Pacific Ocean, combined with warm days, summer fog, and a long growing season.  There are large wineries that we’ve all heard of, like Mondavi, Mumm and Beringer.  Then there are the small, family-owned wineries that don’t have national distribution and whose wines can only be tasted at their vineyards.   

At the opening to the Sonoma Valley is Viansa Winery.  Migrant workers, called trabajadores, have been busy for over a month harvesting the grapes.  In the early morning, the grapes are cool and full of sweetness and that’s when the trabajodores rush up and down the rows wielding their knives.  Viansa sits high on a hill and as you drive up, olive trees and roses seem to welcome you.  The landscaping reminded me of Italy and I felt like I was back in that lovely country.  Ivy grows over the building that houses not only fine wine and olive oil, but all kinds of condiments.  Set out on large square tables are samples of flavored olive oils, vinegars, mustards, dips and sauces.  It’s a mouth-watering array of goodness.  We loaded up our basket with an array of Red Pepper Salsa and Sam’s Tomatillo Relish, Artichoke Pesto, Garlic Dipping Oil, and a Peach Vinegar.  There is a sweet area with different flavored chocolate toppings, but I favored the Cream Caramel Dolcetti.  There is a wide variety of Italian dishware and wine paraphernalia for purchase.  Besides tasting the wine, you can purchase a bottle, buy a Panini or salad, or opt for a wood-fired pizza and dine alfresco under a grape arbor, overlooking the valley.

Napa Valley is home to more than 260 wineries.  Just north of Rutherford is the V. Sattui winery.  It is a small family-owned winery, operated by the fourth-generation Sattui family.  It is one of only a few wineries in America to sell its entire production of wine directly to the customer, exclusively at the winery.  They have won many awards for their efforts including  “Winery of the Year”  and  “Best Winery in the Western U.S.”   Besides their complimentary wine tasting, they have about 200 different cheeses, some of which you can also sample.  There’s fresh bread, cold meats and even fruits and homemade desserts to choose from for a picnic on the 2-acre tree-shaded grove.  The grove is absolutely perfect for sitting outside while enjoying the aromas and food at lunch time. 

Tastings can vary greatly from winery to winery, in both price and vintage.  Some, like V. Sattui, Simi, Rodney Strong and Bouchaine, offer free tastings, while others, like Viansa, charge $5 for four different tastes.  There are other vineyards that charge $10 and up, depending on what they are pouring for you to taste;  not that steep a price considering the pour may be from a $100-$200 bottle of wine.         

Three simple steps to wine tasting

1.  Swirl—Swirl the wine vigorously in the glass.  As the wine coats the sides of the glass, it releases its aroma of bouquet.

2.  Sniff—Insert your nose into the glass and inhale by taking quick, full sniffs.  The aromas can be quite different depending on how far into the glass your nose goes.

3.  Taste—Sip a small amount of wine and move it over your entire tongue so that all your taste buds come in contact with it.  Taste for sweetness or dryness.  Tannins  (used in red wines to keep them from spoiling)  will feel sort of prickly on your tongue.  The ideal touch is a mellow softness—a velvety feeling in your mouth.

Athena  (Viansa)
It has notes of raspberry, strawberry and sweet cherry.  The fruitiness and low tannins make it a very food-friendly wine.  It’s an excellent wine for those who are just learning to appreciate red wine.  They recommend chilling it slightly before serving.